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Detailing Products We Use

At Dylan’s Detailing we always use the highest quality products because we believe that if we want to deliver the highest quality services, we need to use the highest quality products. In this list you will get the links of all the products we use, why we use these products, and some advice on them. All of the amazon links below are amazon affiliate links and will give us a small commission of the purchase price, but this will not raise the price for you in any way.

The product list below is broken up into the following sections:

Interior: Brushes, Towels, Equipment, Glass, Chemicals, and Protectants

Exterior: Wheels, Exhaust, Paint cleaning, Enhancement/protection, Equipment, and Towels

Interior

Brushes:

Detail Dudes Boars Hair Brushes – At Dylan’s Detailing we strive to make EVERY part of your car as clean as possible, and a lot of the dirtiest parts of your cars interior are in some pretty tough places to get to. That’s where these detailing brushes come into play.

SENHAI Air Vent Cleaners – Cleaning air vents with just a detailing brush is not effective! Ever since we started using these air vent cleaners we have never had an issue with getting all the dirt and dust off of the vents. One of the best tools in our interior tool box!

PHYEX Large Cleaning Brushes – Sometimes just wiping some dirt with a towel isn’t aggressive enough, sometimes you need some bristles to really agitate the surface or get into some small cracks in the surface and these brushes are great for that!

Lilly Pet Hair Brush – When vacuuming, one of the hardest things to get out of the carpets, or seats if they are cloth, is pet hair that has been built up over time. So to really get all of the hair and hard to get out sand or dirt out of the carpets or cloth this brush will not let you down!

Drillstuff Drill Brush Attachment – When cleaning a flat larger surface that needs more than a wipe down, this is the tool we grab, in combination with our drill. Mostly used in combination with Meguiars all purpose cleaner on carpets and seats. Can also be used to clean dirty door panels.

Towels:

Kirkland Signature Ultra Plush Towels – Used to clean sensitive areas like interior pieces with clear coat on top, so we avoid putting scratches on those pieces. Like gage cluster plastic, all screens, and interior trims with a clear coat.

S&T INC. Microfiber Cleaning Cloths – These cheaper towels are used for cleaning the gross areas, such as parts of door jams, cup holders and steering wheel.

Zwipes Auto Microfiber Leather and Vinyl Cloth – These towels are best for drying after we clean a seat or any plastic or vinyl piece due to it’s absorption capabilities.

Equipment

Aqua Pro Vac Carpet Extractor – Before this machine “shampooing” seats was spraying our cleaner, agitating with a brush, then drying with a towel. Which would leave pretty much all of the stains still in the surface and didn’t lift up much grime. This machine is a must have if your going to shampoo any cloth surface! This is used to shampoo seats and carpets. Gets out %95 of stains, and takes out all those nasty oils, dirt and sweat for a super clean seat or carpet!

Black+Decker Cordless Power Drill – Combined with drill brush attachments, this is a very useful tool for rubbing/spreading cleaners around and agitating dirty surfaces.

Vacmaster Beast Wet/Dry Vacuum and Blower – The best vacuum on the market for the price, and it’s also super powerful, portable, and like the name suggests it’s a beast…

Wowfit 100 CT 12×18 inches Clear Bags – VERY USEFUL! Yes they are just bags, but we use them every single detail we do, by to taking out any belongings that our customers might have not taken out, and since the bags are clear, our customers can clearly see what’s inside. Highly recommended even if your cleaning your own car, so you can put your items back where they belong or decide to throw some trash away.

Nightstick Auto Detailing Light – For detailing jobs that go into the night, this light is super useful and handy! It attaches to the top of the door jambs or to those handles in the headliner of your car so you have great visibility all over the cars interior.

Glass

Auto Care Microfiber Glass Cleaning Towels – Using regular microfiber towels don’t work too well when cleaning glass, but these glass towels clean glass super quick and do a great job. This towel is used to actually clean the glass, but since it leaves streaks after the glass is clean, we follow it up with a super absorbent towel to ensure no streaks are left behind!

Meguiars Glass Cleaner Concentrate – Smells amazing, and is also super effective at cleaning and not leaving any streaks behind after using a 2 towel method for cleaning glass.

Chemicals

Meguiar’s All Purpose Cleaner – Very versatile, as the name suggests, and really the only chemical you could use to clean the entire interior, but it has it’s strengths and weaknesses. This chemical and Meguiar’s Super Degreaser are the top 2 interior chemicals we use at Dylan’s Detailing. We mostly use this All Purpose Cleaner for cleaning carpet, fabric, and cloth.

Meguiar’s Super Degreaser – Works best when cleaning plastics, leather, and vinyls. This is the chemical we use most when cleaning interiors. It’s very good as getting rid of grease, oils and dirt and leaving the material with a matte finish.

CarPro Inside Leather Cleaner – High quality leather cleaner that gets rid of all the grease and grime and leaves the seat looking very clean and having a matte finish. Also smells very nice and fresh!

Lightning Fast Carpet and Upholstery Stain Extractor – If this chemical won’t take out the stain. No other SAFE chemical will get rid of the stain. (Can also get stains out of plastics, just be careful to not let this chemical dry on plastics)

Protectants

303 Leather 3-in-1 Cleans, Conditions, and Protects – After we finish all the cleaning in the car, sometimes some scuffs or dirt gets on the seats as we work. So that’s why at the very end we apply this leather cleaner/protectant so it can make the seats as clean as possible and also protects them from UV damage, and future stains.

Griot’s Garage Fabric Protectant – Used after we shampoo the fabric seats for UV protection, and also preventing stains and spills to seep into the fabric. Great product, but definitely doesn’t smell the best…

303 Aerospace Protectant – Used after we clean all plastics and vinyl’s to make the material have a great matte finish, while also protecting the material for up to 3 months from UV damage and stains. (When applying this product you need to be careful or it WILL leave streaks. You need to use a small amount, apply it, then imminently wipe it off. And if you do get streaks, use a degreaser to get them off.)

Armor All Original Protectant – ONLY USED IF CUSTOMER WANTS SHINY VINYL, RUBBER OR PLASTIC! At Dylan’s Detailing we use the highest quality products possible, but in the case that a customer wants their vinyl’s, rubbers and plastics shiny, this is the product that will give them the shine they are looking for and it will still protect those surfaces.

Exterior

Wheels

Adam’s Iron Remover – For wheels this is the first product we use if your getting our Total Exterior detail. Why? Brake dust. Brake dust has iron in it and will make your brakes and wheels rusty if not taken care of.

P&S Brake Buster – For a ph balanced wheel cleaner, this is the best of the best. Foams up super well and cleans good. Although if you have super caked wheels then stepping up to Meguiar’s Wheel Brightener is the way to go, you just need to be careful because it is not ph balanced which means if you use it on polished aluminum, anodized or aftermarket wheels it could damage them. We stick to P&S Brake Buster to make sure we don’t damage any wheels.

Superior Products Formula 4 Spray Wax – LIFE SAVER! When washing cars we clean the wheels first, and then the paint. So we leave the wheels sitting for quite some time while we finish the other wheels and hand wash the paint. So that leaves time for water spots to dry on to the wheels and ruin the work we put in. This spray wax limits the chance of water spots by at least 90%. That’s why we apply this spray wax after are done cleaning each wheel.

Maxshine Stiff Bristle Brush – To clean tires you need a stiffer bristle brush, and this one is perfect! We clean tires by spraying P&S Brake Buster on the tire and then scrubbing the whole tire with this brush.

Speed Master Wheel Brush – In the past we have used wool woolies/brushes like this one, but a mush bulkier version, to try and clean inside the rim of the wheels, but the problem with those are that they barley fit into any wheels and they don’t hold soap very well. This Speed Master wheel brush fits into 90% of wheels, holds soap very well, and is very durable and safe to use.

Chemical Guys Wheel Brush – Super soft bristles and still has great cleaning capabilities. Used mostly for light wheel cleaning or very intricate wheel cleaning.

Chemical Guys Long Handle Wheel Well Brush – Perfect brush for cleaning wheel wells! It has super soft bristles so it won’t rip felt wheel wells apart and also won’t damage wheels if you use this brush on them.

Viking Boars Hair Detailing Brush – (Lug nut brush) Used mostly for getting into the lug nut areas on wheels, but we also use them for tight spaces and on intricate wheels.

Exhaust

Chemical Guys Light Metal Polish – This is one chemical that we will never go on a job without, and that’s because it works so well! Pretty much any metal that is cloudy, has water spots or has light oxidation can be turned into new again! That’s why it works especially good on exhausts.

Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish – For super caked on exhaust we use Mothers for their Mag & Aluminum Polish because it’s good as getting a lot of the black residue of the exhaust. Be aware, if your exhaust is really caked in black carbon residue, like most exhausts, then it will take a lot of time to get it looking good again and will require a couple different drill brush attachments, a drill, steel wool and a lot of patience.

Paint cleaning

Chemical Guys Mr.Pink Car Wash Soap -One of the highest quality ph balanced wash soap around! Foams up very well, smells great and the car always looks AMAZING after it’s washed!

Chemical Guys Clean Slate Strip Wash Soap – Everytime we are going to put a wax, sealant, polish, or compound on a car we always use this stripping wash soap to take off any old products used on the paint. This soap is also not ph balanced, which means that it cleans a lot better than a regular wash soap to make the paint as clean as possible!

DocaPole Car Cleaning Kit – Most of the items in this kit are used for big vehicles for efficiency and to clean the vehicle the best we possibly can. Here is a list of when we use certain items in this kit:

Soft Bristle Brush: Because the top of RV’s are a different, more tough material that doesn’t scratch easy we use this brush to get off the caked on grime that is usually on top of RV’s. We don’t recommend using this brush on paint because, even though it is a soft bristle brush, it is still to “rough” and may put very minor scratches in paint.

Window Cleaner / Squeegee: After washing big vehicles like, RV’s or big special work trucks this is used to get all the water from the high up places off, and also used as a cleaner for high up windows.

Microfiber Wash Towel Pole Attachment: Used with water and wash soap on big trucks, RV’s or anything where we can’t reach with our wash mitts.

Microfiber Wash Mitts: Just regular high quality wash mitts we use on almost every wash.

Viking Bug Sponges – Bugs are always a pain to get off when a car doesn’t have some sort of paint protection on it, and this bug sponge gets off about 85% of the bugs! Then if the sponge doesn’t get them off we have a bug and tar remover we will use to get it all off.

Turtle Wax Bug and Tar Remover – If the car we are working on is caked in bugs, sap, bird poop, or tar, we will rinse the car and then apply this to areas that need it and 95% of the time it takes them right off! But if this doesn’t work to take off the bugs, sap, bird poop or tar, we will use a more aggressive method using a clay bar to ensure it’s all off.

Car Wash Mitts – These cheaper mitts are specifically designated for dirtier sections of the car or truck, like the back of the car, lower sections of the sides of the car, and the front of the car. We designate certain wash mitts to certain areas to avoid putting micro scratches in the paint.

Enhancement/protection

Sonax Quick Detailer – When doing our final inspection on the outside of the car we usually find a few spots that somehow got some water spotting, streaking or maybe we forgot to buff off wax from a certain part of the car. That’s where this quick detailer comes in handy. Just spray, light rub in and buff off and it leaves a brilliant shine!

Collinite Insulator Carnauba Wax – You will not find a higher quality wax on the market. This product might look expensive for only 16 ounces, but this product goes a VERY long way. Used after washing and clay baring the vehicle for protection and water beading for up to 3 months, and it also leaves the vehicle with a great shine!

Jescar Power Lock Polymer Paint Sealant – Again, we only use the highest quality products on the cars we detail, and this paint sealant is exactly that. The highest quality. After this sealant is applied you will get up to 6 months of paint protection, and also gives your car a high gloss look.

Chemical Guys VRP – Mostly used for tire shine, to bring that deep black color of the tire back to life, but this product is also used for restoring trim, vinyl, rubber or plastic.

Iron Remover (Chemical Decontamination) – Used to eliminate all the iron particles that have settled into your cars paint, so that your paint doesn’t rust into the future. Also takes away those little brown dots (iron spots) in your paint, to reveal a better looking paint job.

Mild Clay Bars – On every one of our Total Exterior and Platinum Package details, we fully clay bar the paint after a hand wash and chemical decontamination, to get off all of the stuck on water spots, bird poop, sap, paint overspray and basically everything that gets stuck on the cars paint. This is the clay bar we will reach for 90% of the time, but for paint with really stuck on grime we will move up to a more aggressive clay bar.

Heavy Duty Clay Bar – Most of the time we will not have to use this clay bar, but when their is a lot of contaminates in the paint, a lot of paint overspray or water spots we will break this clay bar out to ensure your paint is a smooth as can be.

Equipment

Vacmaster Beast Wet/Dry Vacuum and Blower – Not only is this a vacuum, but it doubles as a very good blower to get water out of those tight and intricate places that our drying towels cannot get to. The main reason we use this blower is so that after you use it, water doesn’t drip down later on and get water streaks and spots all over the car.

Greenworks 1700 PSI Electric Power Washer – Working with cars you need to get as low pressure as possible to ensure you don’t damage the cars paint, and this power washers PSI is about 1500 after it comes out through the nozzle which is perfect for working on cars, so you don’t need to worry about getting too close with the nozzle.

Step Ladder – Sometimes you can’t always reach the top of a vehicle, so this solves that problem. Mostly used on Suv’s, trucks and some RV’s.

5 Gallon Buckets (3) – The use of 3 buckets when washing vehicles is NECESSARY! We always use 3 buckets to avoid scratching the paint, efficiency and to avoid putting more dirt on the vehicle. 1 bucket for wheels, 1 as a rinse bucket, and 1 wash mitt bucket. Use each bucket for it’s intended use and you will significantly reduce the chances of scratching your cars paint and improve the outcome of the wash. (Any 5 gallon bucket will do. obviously not just this one)

Grit Guards – If your serious about not putting more marring, swirls, or also known as micro scratches in your vehicles paint, we highly recommend using grit guards to keep the dirt in your buckets in the bottom of the buckets, therefore they aren’t back onto your wash mitts, therefore creating less scratches. We use them in all 3 buckets!

Towels

The Rag Company 70/30 Blend 365 GSM Microfiber Towels – Hands down the best paint towels we have ever used. Mostly used for buffing off waxes or sealants, and drying.

GYEON Quartz Silk Dryer – The best drying towel money can buy. A lot of super fluffy towels that are “absorbent” leave a ton of water streaks all over the place, but this towel does the exact opposite. After you use this towel, the surface is dry as can be.

Griot’s Garage PFM Drying Towel – The best absorbing drying towel! A method we use to get all the water off the paint is we use this towel first to get off 95% of the water, then we use the GYEON Silk Dryer towel to get off any streaks that may be left behind.